Angkoul Beach Far Away In Time

Considering the relative scarcity of accessible beaches in South-East Cambodia, Angkoul Beach is surprisingly almost always deserted. Though recently several gazebo structures were built ($2 to rent), you will practically have these stretches of sand to yourself.

The easy route to Angkoul Beach is a 25km journey, follow the road toward the Ha Tien border-crossing, turn off at the salt workers' statute (see coastal maps). When you spot the lone hill at the salt -fields, keep an eye out for the cenent-framed turn-off and follow the track around the hill to the beach.

For the adventurous route 15km, search out the school east of the kep market on the right. The two food vendors with red plastics chairs mark the turn-off. Follow the dirt path and head for the lone hill. You might encounter small fishing villages with pretty, painted boats or impassable bridges of single, narrow wooden planks. You will encounter salt-fields and endless intersecting paths. This route may or may not result in the short-cut. Bring sunscreen. Otherwise, most tuk-tuk drivers should be able to get you there.

Fancy Checking Out Some Birds?

Location in Kampong Trach District, a short trip from the caves, is Anlung Pring Bird Sanctuary.

The sanctuary protects more than 30% of the vulnerable global Sarus crane population. At a standing height of up to 1.8m, the impressive Saurs is the largest of the flying birds and can be seen from mid-November until early May when they bugger off to breed. The $10 entry fee goes toward park preservation and supporting the local villagers. Boat trip on the flood-plains are provided but not always available. (www.mekongcrane.com-info@wildcambodia.org-011648976)

Find your way onto road 33 (see Coastal maps) and head toward PHNOM PENH until you get to a sharp left bend (29km from Kep). Ho straight ahead along the gravel road. 700m ok n, turn right under the archway and continue for another 9kntill you get to a T-junction. Turnbleft, and then turn right after the pagoda. Three more kms and turn left at the crane sign. 200m and turn left and after another 1.5kmbyou should arrive at the make-shit sanctuary watch-post. If you're lost 'Sat Kreal' is Khmer for 'Crane Bird'-flapping your arms in the crane imitation probably won't help other than to confirm for the Khmer people the oddness of barangs.

The Not So Secret Lake

Set among iridescent rice paddies and a backdrop of limestone mountains, the beauty of the so-called 'secret makes is striking. The lake is an irrigation dam built through enforced labor under the Khmer rogue regime. It now plays host to tubing and padding leisure -seekers looking to cool off with an afternoon of food and drink on the many bamboo platforms.

From the white horse toward Kampot (see Coastal maps), turn right at the third of the decorated archways (roughly 4km) and follow through the picturesque rice fields and villages for a further 5km. From Kampot, turn left onto the first diagonal dirt road towards Kep after crossing the bridge 6km. Follow on ignoring all intersections.